Download the drawings for the toy dump truck plans which is a zip file containing the patterns.
The really simple design makes it an ideal project for the beginner. This is an ideal scrap wood project - it can be made from one piece of 19mm thick stock 90mm wide and 450mm long.
The tipper part can be made up of a variety of boards including plywood, MDF or 12mm thick pine boards.
I made my own wooden toy wheels, but you could also buy them from these suppliers.
For the axles and the hinge pin for the tipper, I used 6mm dowel.
These toy dump truck plans have been designed to be made with common tools. No table saws here!
Safety is always the first consideration when dealing with such small pieces of timber.
Below is a list of some of the tools that I used to complete the project.
A 12 inch disc sander or linisher with sanding disk attachment is very useful for trimming up end grain and squaring off small pieces of wood.
It's always a good idea to read through the instructions first. These are guidelines only, your level of experience will no doubt supersede these suggestions.
The parts are assembled in a manner that should allow time for the glue to set between each step.
Cut out the parts that make up the tipper, shown as Part D Assembly in the drawings. This part can be made from any material you may have available, from 6mm MDF or plywood to 12mm pine boards.
Have a careful look at the toy dump truck plans, and note the drawings for the tipper are not full size, so it is best to refer to the dimensions.
The patterns for the rest of the toy dump truck are full size.
The floor and front of the tipper is glued up first, to form an L-shape as shown in the diagram below. Put it to one side to allow the glue to set.
While the glue is setting, cut out the parts from 19mm (3/4”) stock as shown in the cutting diagram below.
Laminate the parts that make up the cab and the hinge. Set them to one side to set.
Clamping the two pieces that make up the chassis together and drill the 6mm diam holes as shown in the drawings. Use a drill press or a drill guide to ensure the holes are perpendicular.
Making a template for the hinge pin. The tipper rotates around the rear end of the chassis, and the hinge block fits snugly against the rear axle. We want a fair amount of clearance here, so accuracy in make and fitting this part is quite important.
Using a piece of card as shown in the photo, mark out the holes using a centre punch or a thin pencil. Mark out the outline of the chassis as well.
Using a compass, mark out a circle that will give clearance to the axle dowel.
Photo of the paper template with the green line showing the outline of the hinge pin, and the red line showing the outline of the chassis.
Note how the hinge pin protrudes above the chassis. This is to allow the tipper enough room to sit flush on the chassis.
Mark the holes for the hinge pin.
Again, note how the hinge pin sits proud of the chassis.
Drill the 6mm diam. hole (shown green) for the hinge pin, and a larger 8mm diam. hole shown red in the photo below.
Please note the position of this hole will determine the clearance of the rear axle when the tipper is resting along the chassis.
The round shape will allow the tipper to rotate, so is is important to get this just right.
Cut out the hinge pin using the paper template made earlier.
Back to the tipper, if the glue has set enough to be handled.
To complete the tipper part, the two sides are fixed in place as shown in the diagram below. Note position shaded allows for a shadow line along these edges.
Finish the cab by sanding the end grain surfaces smooth. Drill the hole to represent the windows with a 22mm spade bit or Forstner bit.
Cut the two axle dowels to length, plus a fraction extra for a pair of plastic washers made from a plastic milk carton.
Mark the position of the chassis shown red in the drawing.
Glue the chassis parts to this line and using the axle dowels to hold the parts in position.
The diagram below shows the hinge pin in position. Sand the hinge pin to make it slightly thinner so that it will rotate freely. Make sure the hinge clears the rear axle.
Note the red line in the diagram showing the hinge pin sitting just above the chassis. This is to allow clearance for the tipper to rest along the back of the chassis.
Time to attach the tipper to the hinge. With the hinge in position, place the tipper along the chassis with about 1mm clearance from the back of the cab.
Drill two holes to fit two screws as shown in the diagram below.
It is good practice in woodworking and carpentry to stagger the screws so that they do not follow the same grain. Do this in order to minimise the risk of splitting the wood.
These screws are used to clamp the tipper in position until the glue sets. You may prefer to remove the screws and replace them with a pair of dowels before finishing.
Test the action of the tipper and adjust accordingly before gluing the tipper in place.
All that remains is to drill out the holes in the chassis for the axles with a 6.5 mm drill bit to allow the wheels to spin freely.
Make a set of plastic washers using a hollow punch and a plastic milk carton.
You could also rub a bit of candle wax along the axle to act as a lubricant.
Apply a dab of glue on each end of the axle to hold the wheels in place.
Round over all the edges with 80 grit sandpaper, give everything a final sanding with a finer grade of sandpaper, and the toy is ready for finishing of your choice.
I sincerely hope you enjoy making this project from these free wooden toy dump truck plans.
Free wooden toy truck patterns for toy dump truck Mk1 which measures almost 18 inches long and a bit more than 6 inches wide. Made from half inch stock, it is light but sturdy. Features full size patterns and step by step instructions with photos.
Toy tipper truck plan Mk3 measures 250mm [10 in.] long by 115mm [4.5 in.] high and 90mm [3.5 in.] wide.
Don't be fooled by it's diminutive size. This super micro truck can certainly hold it's own. For starters, it can get to places where other trucks fear to go.
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